Did you know that bakuchiol and retinol reduced wrinkles and dark spots to a similar extent in a 12-week study?
A plant-based alternative
Retinol is one of the most studied ingredients for the signs of aging, but not every skin tolerates it well. Scaling and stinging, especially in the first weeks, lead many people to look for alternatives.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived substance. Earlier studies had suggested that it works in a similar way to retinoids, because it induces a similar pattern of gene expression in the skin and improves sun damage. What was missing was a direct comparison of the two substances in people.
How the study was done
The study, published in 2019 in the British Journal of Dermatology, was randomized and double-blind and involved 44 people for 12 weeks. One group applied a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day, the other a 0.5% retinol cream once a day.
High-resolution photos of the face were taken at the start and after 4, 8 and 12 weeks and analyzed with a dedicated system. Participants answered questions about side effects, and a dermatologist who did not know which group they belonged to graded pigmentation and redness.
What was observed
Both bakuchiol and retinol significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the two.
The difference was in tolerability. Retinol users reported more scaling and stinging of the facial skin. According to the authors, bakuchiol was comparable to retinol in improving the signs of photoaging and was better tolerated.
How to read the result
The study is well designed, with randomization, a double-blind setup and an expert assessor. The number of participants is small, though, 44 people split into two groups, and it lasted three months. The two creams were also used at different frequencies, and the comparison concerns these specific formulas.
The authors describe bakuchiol as a promising and more tolerable alternative. It is an interesting conclusion that deserves confirmation from larger studies. If your skin reacts badly to retinol, or if you are considering a change of routine, a dermatologist can help you choose what to try and how.
This article is for information only. It does not replace the advice of a doctor or dermatologist, whom you should consult with any question about your skin.