Did you know that ferulic acid made vitamins C and E more stable and doubled their photoprotection in the laboratory?
Three antioxidants together
Vitamins C and E are two antioxidants widely used in skincare. They have a weak spot well known to cosmetic formulators, though. Vitamin C in particular is unstable and tends to break down, losing its effectiveness.
Ferulic acid is an antioxidant that is very common in the plant world. The researchers asked whether adding it to the two vitamins could make them more stable and improve their protection of the skin against the sun’s rays.
How the study was done
The study, published in 2005, was carried out in the laboratory. The researchers prepared a solution with 15% vitamin C and 1% vitamin E, with and without ferulic acid, and assessed its chemical stability.
They then applied the solutions to the skin and exposed it to radiation that simulates sunlight. Protection was measured by looking at redness and at the formation of cells damaged by sunburn. Some markers of DNA damage were measured as well.
What was observed
Adding ferulic acid improved the chemical stability of the two vitamins. Protection of the skin against the simulated radiation doubled, from about 4 times with the vitamins alone to about 8 times with ferulic acid.
The formula also reduced the formation of a type of DNA damage caused by UV rays. According to the authors, this combination of antioxidants provides synergistic protection against oxidative stress in the skin.
How to read the result
This is a laboratory study, useful for understanding mechanisms and for guiding those who develop formulas. The protection it describes refers to experimental conditions and is not the same as the protection factor of a sunscreen. The abstract does not describe the skin model in detail.
The practical message is that, with antioxidants, the combination of ingredients and the stability of the formula matter a great deal. An antioxidant formula never replaces daily sunscreen, which remains the main way to protect the skin from the sun. To decide how to combine your products, you can ask a dermatologist for advice.
This article is for information only. It does not replace the advice of a doctor or dermatologist, whom you should consult with any question about your skin.