Did you know that the surfactants in cleansers can stay in the skin even after rinsing and alter its structure?
Washing is necessary, but how
Cleansing the skin is a daily habit and a necessary one for hygiene. Cleansers contain surfactants, the substances that allow water to remove dirt and sebum. Their action goes beyond the surface, because they interact with the skin in several ways.
Many people notice that some cleansers leave the skin tight or red. Understanding what happens at a microscopic level helps explain this common feeling.
What the review covers
The work we are discussing is a review published in 2012. The authors sum up their research on the interaction between surfactants and the stratum corneum, studied with laboratory techniques such as vibrational spectroscopy and two-photon microscopy, which make it possible to observe these processes at the molecular level.
They also describe the technologies developed to make cleansers that clean and respect the skin barrier at the same time. The authors work in the industry that develops these products.
What emerges
During cleansing, surfactants extract some components of the skin and can remain in the stratum corneum even after rinsing. These effects disrupt the structure of the stratum corneum and weaken its barrier properties.
The main strategy for limiting the problem is to reduce the interaction of surfactants with the skin. One solution described is the use of special polymers. When these are present, surfactants gather into larger, more stable structures that penetrate the skin less. The result is a less aggressive cleanser that helps maintain the integrity of the barrier.
How to read this work
The review explains a mechanism that concerns everyone, but it should be read knowing that it mainly sums up the authors’ own research on one specific technology. Other approaches to formulating gentle cleansers exist and are not covered here.
The practical message is that choosing a cleanser deserves as much care as choosing a cream. A gentle cleanser, lukewarm water and thorough rinsing are sensible habits, especially in the evening. If your skin feels tight or turns red after every wash, talk to a dermatologist to find the right product.
This article is for information only. It does not replace the advice of a doctor or dermatologist, whom you should consult with any question about your skin.