Did you know that a 5% niacinamide cream reduced dark spots on the face after 4 weeks in a clinical study?
Why dark spots form
Skin color depends mainly on melanin, a pigment made by cells called melanocytes. Melanin is packed into tiny granules, the melanosomes, which are passed on to the neighboring cells of the epidermis. When this process concentrates in certain areas, dark spots appear, and they can have different causes.
Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, has been studied to see whether it can fade dark spots and how it might work.
How the study was done
The study, published in 2002, combined laboratory tests with tests in people. In the laboratory the researchers used several models, from an isolated enzyme to cultured cells and a reconstructed, pigmented epidermis.
The clinical studies involved Japanese women. In one, 18 women with hyperpigmented spots used a moisturizer with 5% niacinamide and the same moisturizer without niacinamide for comparison. In another, 120 women with facial tanning used combinations of a base cream, a sunscreen and 2% niacinamide with sunscreen. Changes were measured with computer analysis of high-resolution images and with visual grading.
What was observed
In the laboratory, niacinamide did not block the enzyme that makes melanin, nor melanin production in melanocytes. It did reduce the transfer of melanosomes to neighboring cells by 35 to 68%, and it reduced pigmentation in the reconstructed epidermis model.
In the clinical studies, after 4 weeks, niacinamide significantly reduced hyperpigmentation and brightened the complexion compared with the base cream alone.
How to read the result
The study is interesting because it links a visible result to a mechanism observed in the laboratory. The clinical groups are small or specific, though, the duration is only a few weeks and the participants were all Japanese women. The authors include researchers from the cosmetics industry.
Dark spots have different causes, and some need a medical assessment, especially if they change shape, color or size. Show them to a dermatologist before treating them. And remember that daily sunscreen is an essential part of any routine for dark spots.
This article is for information only. It does not replace the advice of a doctor or dermatologist, whom you should consult with any question about your skin.