Did you know that a peptide added to a moisturiser was associated with fewer wrinkles and fine lines in 12 weeks?
Short chains of amino acids
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the same building blocks that make up proteins. Cosmetics contain many different kinds, designed for different purposes. The long names we often read on labels describe the sequence of these building blocks.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide is a synthetic molecule designed to be applied to the skin. It was developed with the aim of stimulating collagen production and so acting on wrinkles. The study we are discussing set out to test it in people.
How the study was done
In the study, published in 2005, 93 fair-skinned women aged 35 to 55 took part. For 12 weeks they applied a moisturizer containing the peptide to one half of the face and the same moisturizer without the peptide to the other half.
The half to be treated was chosen at random, and neither the participants nor the researchers knew which it was, in a double-blind design. Wrinkles were assessed with technical image analysis and by expert graders looking at the photos. The participants also gave their own assessment.
What was observed
On the side with the peptide there was a significant improvement in wrinkles and fine lines compared with the side with the moisturizer alone, both in the technical analysis and in the expert assessment.
The participants also reported a significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, and a positive trend for other aspects of the face. The peptide was well tolerated by the skin.
How to read the result
Comparing two halves of the same face, the double-blind design and a sample of 93 people make this a solid study for cosmetic research. Keep in mind, though, that it measures the appearance of wrinkles. The effect on collagen was the purpose the molecule was designed for, and it was not measured in this work.
The result also concerns one specific concentration and one specific population. Peptides are generally well tolerated ingredients, but every skin is different. If you are building a routine with several active ingredients, a dermatologist can help you combine them in the right way.
This article is for information only. It does not replace the advice of a doctor or dermatologist, whom you should consult with any question about your skin.