Did you know that a dexpanthenol cream sped up barrier recovery after laboratory-induced irritation?
A long-familiar ingredient
Dexpanthenol, also called panthenol or provitamin B5, has been found in creams and ointments for many years, and it is also used for minor superficial injuries of the skin and mucous membranes.
In the tissues, dexpanthenol is converted into pantothenic acid, a component of coenzyme A. Coenzyme A takes part in the first steps of making fatty acids and sphingolipids, lipids that are very important for the barrier of the stratum corneum and for the integrity of cell membranes. The study we are discussing set out to test its effect on irritated skin.
How the study was done
In the study, published in 2002, the skin was irritated in a controlled way with sodium lauryl sulfate, a surfactant often used in the laboratory precisely to cause a standard irritation. The surfactant was applied in small patch test chambers.
The irritated areas were treated twice a day with either a cream containing dexpanthenol or the same cream without dexpanthenol. Some areas were left untreated. Dedicated instruments measured barrier recovery, hydration, roughness and redness.
What was observed
The dexpanthenol cream significantly sped up barrier recovery compared with both the cream without dexpanthenol and untreated skin.
Both creams increased the hydration of the stratum corneum, but the dexpanthenol cream did so more. Both reduced roughness, and here too the dexpanthenol cream performed better. Only the dexpanthenol cream significantly reduced redness, a sign of inflammation, while the cream without it had no effect.
How to read the result
The study has a good comparison, with an identical cream without the active ingredient and untreated areas. The abstract does not say how many volunteers took part, however, and the irritation was caused artificially, which is different from everyday skin problems.
The practical message is that a simple, well-tolerated ingredient was associated with faster barrier recovery after irritation. If your skin is irritated, chapped or broken, though, the first step is to find the cause with a dermatologist.
This article is for information only. It does not replace the advice of a doctor or dermatologist, whom you should consult with any question about your skin.